Perlis may be the smallest state in Malaysia, but holds its own when it comes to a rich historic past and charming attractions.

Perlis is located at the northern part of west coast of Peninsular Malaysia, south of Thailand and north of Kedah. With a population of close to 230,000 people in an area measuring close to 800 square kilometres, Perlis is known as the smallest state in Malaysia.

The capital of Perlis is Kangar and about 10km away is the state’s royal capital Arau. For most travellers, Perlis is a stopover on the way to other towns or tourist attractions. For example, Perlis’ Padang Besar is a border town that is part of a common route travellers take from Malaysia to Thailand. Perlis’ main port and ferry terminal at a small village of Kuala Perlis is also used to get to Langkawi Island, popular with foreign and local tourists.

An aerial view of Kangar town today.

Even though Perlis is seen as a transportation link to other popular destinations, it is ironic that there is no airport in the state. Rail or road are the only options for people to get into Perlis. The nearest airports are located in Alor Setar, Kedah, which is about 40 kilometres away from Kuala Perlis, and on Langkawi island, about 45 kilometres away from Perlis’ main port.

Historical go-between

Originally, Perlis was part of Kedah and was ruled by the Siamese, which conquered Kedah in 1821. During Siamese rule, Perlis was called Palit. At that time the Siamese had signed an agreement with the British, where the latter acknowledged the Siamese claim over four northern states – Perlis, Kedah, Kelantan and Terengganu. This treaty, known as the Burney Treaty 1826, assured the British its claim on Penang and rights to trade in Terengganu and Kelantan without interference from the Siamese.

The exiled Kedah Sultan Ahmad Tajuddin and his followers fought for over 12 years to restore the Malaya Sultan to his throne, but finally the Malay ruler accepted the conditions set by the Siamese and resumed his Sultanate in Kedah. The Siamese then separated Perlis as a vassal state, where Sayyid Hussain Jamalulail became the first Raja Perlis or Perlis ruler.

In 1909, the Anglo-Siamese Treaty dissected the ownership of states again, leaving the Siamese’ southern Malay states to the British. While the British had installed a Resident in the state, Perlis was returned to the Siamese (or Thailand) during World War II for its alliance with Japan. But this was only done briefly as the annexation ended after the Japanese surrendered. Perlis became part of the Malayan Union, then the Federation of Malaya in 1957 and joined the Federation of Malaysia in 1963.

Bukit Jernih in Chuping is one of the most colourful limestone hills in Perlis.

Perlis today

Kangar is the state capital of Perlis, with a population of about 50,000.  The 3000 ha sized town is located by the Perlis river. In the centre of the town lies the Sena district or popularly called “Uptown Sena” by locals.

Most of Perlis’ residents are civil servants or farmers who work on the paddy fields in the outskirt areas. The town centre is made up of crisscrossing streets lined by shophouses, typically housing banks, sundry shops and fast food restaurants.

Some believe that the name Kangar came from a hawk species called Kangkok while a different version of its origin is cited in the Perlis state government’s website. The website states that under the rule of Sultan Muhyiddin Mansor Shah from 1652, Tok Peduka opened Kangar in 1653. A Kangar tree was found at the river and subsequently he renamed the area, Pelabuhan Pohon Kangar or Port of Kangar tree.

Perlis’ main economic activity is rice farming and visitors are able to admire the expansive views of paddy fields, wooden huts and farmers tending to their crop when they travel beyond Kangar. Similarly like Perak, magnificent limestone mountains rise from these flat paddy fields, which add to the charm of Perlis. These mountains or outcroppings as they are known, are part of a long limestone range in Southeast Asia called the Nakawan, which lies on the border of Perlis and Thailand.

This 500 million year old limestone is home to over 600 species of flora and fauna, including 68 mammal species, according to the state tourism department. Visitors can explore the wonders of this limestone environment by visiting the 370-metre long limestone cave called Gua Kelam at Kaki Bukit, all at the Perlis State Park. The only way into the cave is by walking on an eight-foot wide wooden suspension bridge, which links Kaki Bukit to the Wan Tangga Valley.

A sea of green: The breathtaking view of the paddy field in Perlis.

History buffs can enjoy the state museum, Kota Kayang Museum or visit the Syed Alwi State Mosque, the former state mosque which was built in 1910. Other popular sights are the quaint fishing town of Kuala Perlis, popular as a transit hub and also for its local cuisine. A snake and reptile farm is located near Sungai Batu Pahat and surrounded by the Bukit Bintang Forest Reserve,  an attraction for nature lovers. At this farm, research is conducted to develop anti-venom medicine for snake bites. It houses over 20 species of snakes and reptiles, including crocodiles and monitor lizards.

Map: Perlis

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Kangar’s little gems

At first glance Sungai Buloh may seem unassuming, quiet, boring even, an area within the Klang Valley with greenery. But visitors to Sungai Buloh are in for a surprise when they learn of its colourful past.

The Sungai Buloh we know today is a place where gardening enthusiasts go to purchase plants, vegetable seedlings and fertilisers from the many nurseries located in and around this suburban town. It is also set to be a major transport hub as it has been marked as one of the main stations under the new Mass Rapid Transit (MRT) project, aimed at reducing congestion and improving public transportation.

But there’s more to Sungai Buloh than meets the eye.

The Sungai Buloh Leprosy Control Centre is a 230ha (568 acres) settlement, with its lush greenery and idyllic surroundings, belie the history of this close knit community.

Historic events shaped Sungai Buloh

Severe leprosy outbreaks took place in Malaysia in the 1800s which prompted community leaders and local authorities to find humane ways to help lepers by providing them places to recover and get treatment, as existing facilities were far from adequate.

Based on local laws at the time, patients had to be segregated from others, either under supervision of medical staff or be housed in a camp. In the late 1800s and early 1900s, there were four leprosy camps in Malaysia – Pulau Serimbun (Malacca), Pulau Jerejak (Penang), Setapak (Selangor) and Pangkor Island (off Perak).

But it took a few medical experts and policy makers to do away with existing camps, which were likened to barbed-wired prisons. In 1923, Dr E. A. O. Traverse proposed a policy to improve the living conditions for those suffering from leprosy, in an area where patients could live with dignity, while receiving necessary care.

Selling not only items such as water features, the Sungai Buloh Garden World sells a concept with the objective to turn any home a heaven to come to.

With this push, Sir George Maxwell, the chief secretary of the Federated Malay States started to build a leprosy settlement in 1926, choosing Sungai Buloh for its lush valley and cool climate, much needed for leprosy patients who are sensitive to heat. Located near Bukit Lagong, by two rivers – the Sungai Buloh and Sungai Cemubung – it was a perfect place for the community.

The Sungai Buloh Leprosy settlement turned out to be one of the largest settlements under the British rule, and the second biggest one in the world, fondly also known as the Valley of Hope. The area, officially renamed National Leprosy Control Centre in 1969, was equipped with facilities and amenities to turn it into a garden city, allowing the community to become a self-supporting one. The idea of offering an opportunity to stem stigma was being realised in Sungai Buloh as lepers were able to grow their own plants for sale and earn an income, while living in a spacious and beautiful area.

Houses were built in clusters so people were encouraged to interact with another, on top of providing a sense of security. At each cluster, a food distribution area or market was built, again to encourage gathering of people to socialise while they visited these public areas. To further encourage community activities, a variety of clubs were set up. The Malay Club, various Chinese clan associations, the Indian Mutual Aid as well as drama clubs organised gatherings, dinners and performances. Similarly, religious institutions like temples, mosques and churches were built as a source of spiritual support for the community.

Over 2000 patients lived in Sungai Buloh, and the numbers were high enough to set up a separate administrative body. Simple civil functions such as birth, marriage and death registrations were supervised by a medical superintendent, who also monitored a divorce court in the area.

More importantly, Sungai Buloh was built for the leper community and it was run by the community. This gave a sense of purpose for leprosy sufferers as many became administrative workers, nurses, teachers and mechanics. Some were more entrepreneurial, setting up coffee shops, barber shops and small grocery stores.

Modernising Sungai Buloh

After the late 1960s, there were no more admissions to the centre, but plans to build an infectious disease control centre was laid out under the Ninth Malaysia Plan.

Some 200 elderly former leprosy patients still live in the area, either in their own homes or in hospital quarters. Conservationists did express concern over whether the lush green area would have to make way for development, but due to pressure from the Save the Valley of Hope group in a campaign to preserve Sungai Buloh, the authorities designated 78ha of the total 230ha area to be gazetted as national heritage.

The Sungai Buloh Leprosy settlement.

Old buildings still dot the Sungai Buloh area, as they offer charm and quaintness of this once contained community. People visiting the area are encouraged to venture beyond the horticultural area to admire the old church, wet market and houses which are still standing in this settlement. The old wooden hospital is still functioning as a medical facility, while its newer sister hospital takes on the more complicated cases in a modern steel and glass designed building located at the entrance of Sungai Buloh.

People who want to visit this historic settlement can do so by public transport. Visitors can board the KTM Komuter Train to the Sungai Buloh station and take a Selangor bus number 144A from the station into the settlement. Alternatively, visitors can take the same bus from Medan Pasar in Chinatown and stop at Sungai Buloh Hospital.

Map: Sungai Buloh

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A beach where you can watch the sun rise over the waves, where turtles lay eggs under a moonless sky and where fireflies flit up to you, completely unafraid – that’s Cherating Beach, Pahang.

Cherating, located on the east coast of Malaysia, has long been a popular tourist destination. Boasting Club Med’s first eco-resort, it also houses numerous other resorts and inns that cater to the huge inflow of tourists that arrive on its sandy shores annually.

During the monsoon season (which stretches from November to March), or musim tengkujuh as the locals know it, you get huge swells and strong winds – in other words, perfect surfing conditions.  So, heads up surfers! This is one beach you shouldn’t miss out on.

This is one beach you shouldn’t miss out on.

During the rest of the year, the beautiful weather creates the perfect conditions for other activities that are just as thrilling, like snorkeling (helpful hint: blue jellyfish are harmless, red ones sting), banana boating and ATV rides (on the beach and through the dense, green jungle).

Nature enthusiasts should try out the river cruise; coast along the sun-dappled river during the day, and glide silently through the pitch-black night to watch fireflies light up the river banks like tiny, flying fairy lights.

The river cruise is, in fact, a great way to get a glimpse of what life in sleepy, rural Cherating is like: We came across a fisherman catching crabs in a bubu (a conical, bag-shaped fish trap), and wooden houses perched on the river banks, some complete with zinc roof and Astro satellite dish in a curious juxtaposition of traditional life and modernity.

The river cruise serves as a reminder of what Cherating offers in terms of natural heritage.

We also spied how life is for the non-human inhabitants of Cherating. Our cruise went past a large group of monkeys leaping from one tree to the next, and witnessed an incident that demonstrates how alike they are to us: One particular monkey refused to cross the river with his friends, and for that, he was derided by the others.

Between May and October, turtles also become part of the tourism landscape, coming ashore to lay their eggs. So if you’re excited about watching these endangered creatures, well, lay their eggs, this is a great time to visit.

I personally think it’s a little too private an act to witness, but there were plenty of tourists jostling for prime photographic spots and the turtle seemed too engrossed in her egg-laying to bother with the ring of humans watching her every move.

There are specific tours you can sign up for at hotels and turtle sanctuaries, where you can learn more about turtles and the work being done by the sanctuaries to rescue turtles from the brink of extinction. Word of warning: You need long pants, or insect repellent when engaging in these nature activities. Wearing shorts and neglecting any repellent, like I did, is an open invitation to insects.

Family-oriented resort

When you need to take a break and just chill out, there’s the Legend Resort Cherating. It’s a great place to regroup and relax before the next sandy adventure.

Boasting 248 rooms, the Legend Cherating is very much a family-oriented resort, with a lobby that has pool and foosball tables, and a playground near the swimming pool.

It also contains an almost-antiquated arcade room featuring some really old arcade machines (think the Street Fighter sort) that are pretty much relics of the 90’s and early 2000’s.

The pool area at the Legend Cherating.

This isn’t the only part of the hotel that seems like a blast from the past. The entire lobby seems like it’s frozen in time, circa 1995, from the light fixtures to the bar at the lounge. However, don’t take “stuck in a time warp” to mean “dodgy and crumbling”: The Legend Cherating is well-maintained, if a trifle dated.

To my utter relief, however, some of the rooms have been refurbished recently and look delightfully modern in a welcome contrast to the resort’s outer shell. Pick from sea-facing, pool-facing and garden view rooms.

They all come with the standard hotel amenities, plus an ironing board (this is rare and most welcome, although I do wonder who irons their beachwear). However, there’s no in-room wifi (only available in the lobby).

Even the bathroom was refurbished, with looks to match any five-star bathroom, complete with a new-fangled, many-headed shower that I couldn’t figure out how to fully utilise. There is also a laundry room, where you can use the coin-operated washing machines to do your laundry – this service is one that is a huge hit with the guests, as can be seen by the clothes hanging from chairs and foldable racks on many a balcony.

If you have the dough, try the penthouse suite, which affords you a views  of the ocean. It comprises a master bedroom with its own two-person Jacuzzi in the en-suite bathroom; a twin-bed bedroom; living area; dining area; TV room; kitchen and a little room meant for the help.

The Grand Deluxe Room.

In short, you get the best views in the resort, with comfortable furnishings and ample space for the whole family, if you have RM2,000++ to spare, per night.

The Legend Cherating resort is definitely a very child-friendly establishment. For instance, you can request to have child-sized toilet seats, rent pump water guns (available at the poolside towel shack), or let your little ones enjoy pony rides along the beach.

There are also sports facilities here, but be warned that they look a little shabby. Besides the gym, there is a miniscule (but perfectly functional) sauna, and two Jacuzzis that are regularly made use of by the hotel guests.

Simple, functional, ideally situated and child-friendly, this resort is definitely great for families who are looking to enjoy the sun, sea and sand without completely blowing a hole in their pockets. The main tourist area – Old Cherating, as the locals know it, is only about five to ten minutes away by car, so you can drive or even take a leisurely walk around and get a real feel of the local culture – Hint: it involves a lot of keropok lekor.

Map: Cherating

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To step into Kelantan is to go back in time. Western influence seem to have bypassed this state.

The Malays, who make up over 95% of the state’s population, have managed to retain many of their traditions, and the state has  been dubbed the “Cradle of Malay Culture.”

In Kelantan, colourful kites (wau) soar,  shadow puppets (wayang kulit) mesmerise audiences and giant tops (gasing) provide hours of endless fun.

One thing that surprises first-time visitors to Kelantan is the Buddhist influence. In fact it is home to some of the biggest and most beautiful Buddhist temples or wats in Malaysia.

The state is one of the most scenic in Malaysia with rustic fishing villages, green padi fields and palm-fringed beaches. Everyone who comes to Kota Baru pays a visit to Pasar Besar Siti Khatijah, a market which is a riot of colour. The majority of the stall owners are women!

Shopaholics head for the border towns of Rantau Panjang and Pengkalan Kubur, two tax-free zones which are gateways to Southern Thailand, and offer cheap wares from Thailand.

POWER TO THE WOMEN!: At Kota Baru’s central market, named after a woman, Siti Khatijah, the majority of stall holders are of the fairer sex.

Kota Baru

The Kota Baru town centre is best explored on foot. The palaces and museums, comprising the tourist cultural district, are within walking distance.

They include Istana Batu or the Royal Museum where regalia and palace items belonging to former Sultans are on display.

Istana Jahar or the Museum of Royal Customs is a blend of traditional Kelantanese and Georgian architecture and showcases the best of Kelantanese woodwork.

Istana Balai Besar was formerly the residence of past Sultans but is now only used for official state functions. Also in the vicinity is the Islamic Museum as well as the Handicraft Village and Craft Museum.

The Japanese occupation of Kelantan is preserved in the World War Two Memorial which once served as the headquarters of the Japanese secret police, or Kempetai.

The state museum located along Jalan Hospital also incorporates the state art gallery. The former documents the arts, crafts and musical traditions of Kelantan.

The site of many historical events, Merdeka Square or Padang Merdeka was where Tok Janggut (the leader of the Malay freedom fighters against British rule) was hung upside down from a tree after he was killed by British armed forces in 1915.

Buddhist temples in Kelantan

Did you know that the third-largest reclining Buddha in the world can be found in Kelantan? The temple is located in Kampung Jambu in the Tumpat district.

The statue measuring 40m long, 11m high and 9m wide is in Wat Phothivihan, Tumpat. The structure, which was completed in 1979, is also the largest Buddha statue in South-East Asia.

The sitting Buddha, is in Wat Machimmaram, also in Tumpat. It is 30m high and 18m wide. Another interesting tourist spot in Tumpat, is the Dragon Boat Temple (Wat Mai Suwankiri) which was originally constructed 400 years ago.

Tumpat is easily reached by train as the KTM east coast line ends here.

Beaches

BY ANY NAME: ‘PCB’, which used to be Pantai Cinta Berahi (Beach of Passionate Love) is also known as Moonlight Bay or Pantai Cahaya Bulan (using the same acronym).

Like its neighbours, Terengganu and Pahang, Kelantan is blessed with many beautiful beaches. The most famous is Pantai Cahaya Bulan, dubbed “PCB” by the locals. Fringed by swaying casuarinas and coconut palms, it is the perfect idyll for a holiday visit.

Situated in the district of Bachok about 25km south of Kota Baru, is Pantai Irama, while Pantai Bisikan Bayu is in Semerak in the district of Pasir Puteh, about 50km from Kota Baru.

Pantai Seri Tujuh is the venue for the International Kite Festival, and lies on the border of Thailand and Kelantan at Kampung Tujuh in Tumpat, about 7km from Kota Baru. It is reputed to have the longest lagoon in Malaysia.

Many of Kelantan’s beaches are not considered safe to swim in. The Melawi beach in Bachok is an exception. For those who want to stay overnight, there are plenty of chalets and dormitories. Visitors can also plan a stop at the various tobacco-processing plants here.

The Great Outdoors

Waterfalls in Kelantan are major attractions for picnics and swimming. Jeram Pasu is the most popular.

It is situated off the Kota Baru-Pasir Puteh road at Kampung Pak Amat. Another favourite is Jeram Lenang.
At 120m, Lata Beringin in Gua Musang is one of the highest waterfalls in the country. Located near Taman Negara, visitors can also explore the limestone caves and go on a river safari.

At the Kesedar Inn in Gua Musang, visitors can visit a gold mine, deer park, Orang Asli settlements and an ethno-botanical garden.

An experience not be missed is a river cruise up Sungai Kelantan, from Kuala Krai to Dabong. The two-hour boat ride allows visitors to soak up the grandeur of the rainforest. From Dabong, head to Jelawang. A one-and-a-half-hour jungle trek takes you to the spectacular Jelawang Waterfall.

Kuala Koh, approximately 90km from Gua Musang is the northern entrance to Taman Negara. It is ideal for nature activities such as jungle-trekking, bird watching, river rafting, fishing and mountain climbing. A canopy walkway was recently completed. – By SIMRIT KAUR

For further information, visit Tourism Malaysia’s Official Website.

Thumbnail image used under Creative Commons License, udeyismail (Flickr)

Map: Attractions in Kota Baru, Kelantan

Map: Attractions surrounding Kota Baru, Kelantan

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Kuala Kubu Baru makes for more than just a pit stop en route to popular hill station Fraser’s Hill. The town’s rich history and quaint setting will entice travellers to stay for just a little bit longer.

Kuala Kubu Baru, or KKB as it is fondly known, is often thought of by travellers as a sleepy town in Selangor, but a deeper look into its origins reveals a history that is both enriching and charming.

It is located approximately 70km from the capital city of Kuala Lumpur and is a popular rest area for people heading to one of Malaysia’s favourite hill stations, Fraser’s Hill, which is a 45-minute drive away from KKB.

The great flood and the white crocodile

KKB began as a mining town in the 18th century, originally located between two tributaries of the Selangor River.  In its heyday, it was the second biggest town in Selangor. It also served as a fort for Raja Mahadi and Syed Mashor when they fought against Tengku Kudin’s army during the Selangor civil war from 1867 to 1874. A fortress (kubu in the Malay language) was constructed in the area before the British colonial powers took over the town.

Life in KKB is relaxed and peaceful.

However, tragedy struck in 1883 when a heavy downpour caused the Kuala Kubu dam to burst open and flood the town, affecting its tin mining activities and killing 33 people, including the then District Officer Sir Cecil Ranking. Thirty-eight homes were also destroyed.

Ranking had supposedly shot a white crocodile which was regarded as the river guardian despite being told not to do so. According to local beliefs, his act had caused the calamity to occur and all that was left of him was his hand. Ranking’s hand was interred in a grave at the Kuala Kubu Rest House. Since then, the old town has been known as Ampang Pecah (Broken Dam), and locals termed the flooding as the Kuala Kubu Tragedy.

After the incident, the British government established a new town, calling it Kuala Kubu Baru (“baru” meaning new in the Malay language) in an area close by.

Another tragedy struck in 1951 when Sir Henry Gurney, the then British High Commissioner to Malaya, was assassinated by communist insurgents who ambushed his Rolls Royce along the Jalan Kuala Kubu Baru-Fraser’s Hill road.

Sightseeing in KKB

KKB has retained most of its charm with traditional and quaint shophouses, a 1930s clock tower and an old fire station.  A Buddhist temple that survived the flood was refurbished in the 1980s, and is also another attraction, while Cecil Ranking’s grave might be a stop for those interested in KKB’s history.  A monument was also built in the town to commemorate the KKB flood.

Colonial shophouses still make up most of KKB’s architectural landscape, spanning from the 1920s to the 1980s, which makes it ideal for pleasant walking tours.  Its grid-like streets are made up of sundry shops, eateries, a traditional barber and even a former cinema, converted into an entertainment centre.  Visitors can also enjoy the cool weather as KKB is surrounded by lush trees and tropical jungle.

Typical tourist attractions that can be explored in KKB include an art gallery and the old railway station.   There are a few budget hotels, a golf course, bus terminal and train station but not much else exists in terms of infrastructure and facilities.

The town is hardly what you call hectic, but there is a fair amount of activity that goes on.  Locals go about their daily routine and there are plenty of restaurants to sample local Malaysian food.  One place to enjoy home-styled Hainanese cooking in a traditional shophouse is Sun Sun Seng Nam.  The old Malaya style restaurant still maintains its old fixtures and signages, and customers can choose to sit in the traditional wooden booths to enjoy famous Hainanese dishes.  Another spot to please the hungry traveller is Teng Wun bakery, famous for its kaya puffs and cupcakes.

The Kuala Kubu Baru dam.

KKB: Gateway to outdoor thrills

KKB is located in the Hulu Selangor District, a countryside area that is popular with outdoor enthusiasts as the natural surroundings are dotted with waterfalls, rivers and hiking trails: perfect for whitewater rafting activities and jungle walks.

As such visitors to KKB will find plenty of outdoor activities with which to keep them busy, just beyond its borders. They can use KKB as a base to chill out and relax after enjoying an activity-filled day.

Nature lovers who enjoy hikes to waterfalls can make the trip to the famous Sungai Chilling waterfalls, some 14km away from the town.

Getting there

KKB is easily accessible by public transport from Kuala Lumpur. KTM Komuter’s northern run from the city reaches The Kuala Kubu Baru Railway station, which is stationed just north of KKB.

Board the train from the capital city and alight at the Rawang KTM Komuter station to switch trains (Platform 2 for trains to KKB).  Alternatively, hop on to one of the buses heading towards Tanjung Malim from Rawang, and get off in KKB.

Taxi rides are about RM5 for the 3km journey into KKB.

Map: Kuala Kubu Baru

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Once a well-kept secret, Janda Baik is now gaining some attention among travellers as a peaceful getaway, conveniently located near Kuala Lumpur.

There are several versions to the story of how Janda Baik got its name. Some believe that it was the spot where an Orang Asli couple reunited. Others share a tale about how the place was named after a widow who helped nurse a wounded mercenary during a civil war in Selangor – the man was so grateful that he named the place “Janda Baik” or Good Widow.

Janda Baik is a hilly area situated on the Main Range or Banjaran Titiwangsa of Peninsular Malaysia and provides city dwellers an opportunity to enjoy fresh air and tropical greenery.  This area consists of a small village, with a population of over 1,000 people.  Its main attraction is the lush jungle and cool climate, a result of being located between 600 and 800 metres above sea level, making it a perfect retreat from the busy city.

A view of Janda Baik as seen from one of the homestay bungalows of Tanarimba.

Some feel that Janda Baik is nothing more than a sleepy town, but the fact remains it is dotted with many lovely hotels, homestays and eco-resorts.

Places like Saufiville Boutique Resort, located about 550m above sea level, offers its guests breathtaking views of hills and mountains. Then there’s Sailor’s Rest, a quaint place that offers visitors a homestay experience.  Travellers who enjoy traditional Malay cuisine can sample dishes at Andak’s Place and Sha’az Corner, while tasty snacks are available at Kedai Goreng Pisang Simpang Tiga.

Outdoor enthusiasts would also find Janda Baik to be very much to their liking. There are training camps for organisations to conduct training or team-building activities, making it a popular site for weekend activities.  Camping grounds are available too, along with facilities to conduct activities like water rafting, fishing, flying fox and abseiling.

Map: Janda Baik

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Kedah, the home state of former prime minister Tun Dr Mahathir Mohamad, is known for world-renowned Langkawi – the island paradise of the legendary Mahsuri.

What is lesser known are the serene, rolling hills, the rich archaeological sites and the scenic waterfalls. From relaxing sightseeing to strenuous outdoor activities like diving and hiking, Kedah has a lot to offer.

Many stop over in Alor Star on their way to Thailand or before turning off to Langkawi. This quaint town with historical buildings is not without charm. Thai heritage is particularly evident in relics and temples set against the modern skyline of the capital.

Revisit the childhood days of Dr Mahathir at Rumah Kelahiran Mahathir, which was restored and gazetted as a historical building in 1992.

The Panorama Langkawi cable car ride is an exhilirating experience.

A tour of the house gives a glimpse of Dr Mahathir’s growing up years. Photographs, furniture, household items and even his favourite bicycle are displayed.

Other historical buildings include the Balai Besar, an impressive wooden edifice with traces of Thai architecture. Built in 1898, this “great hall” is used frequently for royal and state occasions.

Not too far from it is the Balai Seni Negri or State Art Gallery with its collection of paintings, antiques and historical relics.

The Balai Nobat houses the sacred instruments of the royal orchestra, played only during royal ceremonies such as inaugurations, weddings and funerals.

For those into naval history, the Royal Boat House will be interesting. The antique royal boats are kept in mint condition and visitors can read about their origins and usage.

When tired of sightseeing, try out the Pekan Rabu, or the Open Bazaar. It’s nothing like your neighbourhood supermarket, but one can still find almost anything and everything there – from local farm produce to handicrafts.

The mountains and hills of Kedah have lovely picnic spots with lush greenery, cool mountain streams and fresh air.

Try out the Pekan Rabu, or the Open Bazaar, where you can find almost anything and everything – from local farm produce to handicrafts.

Spend a day with nature, at the scenic Puncak Janing Waterfalls in Padang Terap, about 25km from Alor Star.

For some sun and sand, Pantai Merdeka in the outskirts of Alor Star is ideal. One can laze for hours on the white sandy beach amidst swaying palms, or try out water sports like water skiing and sailing.

Gunung Jerai

Formerly known as Kedah Peak, Gunung Jerai rises 1,200m above sea level. On a clear day, you get breathtaking views of rolling rice fields, the mysterious emerald sea and the islands of Langkawi.

The phenomena surrounding the peak is fascinating. Recent archaeological findings show the existence of the Temple on the Ninth Water pool (Chandi Telaga Sembilan), believed to be the private pool of the mythical Raja Bersiong or the king with fangs.

Lembah Bujang

Lembah Bujang, the valley at the foot of Gunung Jerai is one of Malaysia’s richest archaeological area with its history as an ancient centre of Hindu civilisation within the region. Numerous temples (chandi) were found along Sungai Bujang, a few of which have been restored to their original form using the same original materials.

At the Bujang Valley Archaeological Museum in Pengkalan Bujang, Merbok, one can see the numerous artificial stone caskets, gem stones, beads which tell of the history of the ancient civilisations.

Visitors check out the remnants of Bukit Batu Pahat temple from the ancient Hindu-Buddhist Malay Kingdom on the grounds of Lembah Bujang Archaeological Museum in Merbok, Kedah. The site is home to Malaysia’s oldest civilisations dating back to more than 1,500 years.

Langkawi

This archipelago of 104 paradise islands is full of legend and mystic. While Langkawi’s main attraction is its white sandy beaches and clear water, the island is not nicknamed Pulau Lagenda for nothing.

The most famous legend is that of Mahsuri, who is said to have cursed the island for seven generations. Luckily, the seven generations have passed and Langkawi Island is fast gaining popularity among tourists worldwide.

Pulau Payar

For more adventure, go off the beaten track to Pulau Payar, which can be reached by ferry from Pulau Langkawi. The marine park has gorgeous coral gardens, and if you are lucky, you might even spot a dolphin or two.

Pedu Lake

Where else can you dream of coming across elephants and tigers while enjoying the clear waters of one of Malaysia’s most beautiful lakes?

A prime eco-tourist destination, Pedu Lake boasts of wide array of flora and fauna. The 12km-long lake is situated in the middle of virgin rainforest, approximately 5km from the Malaysian-Thai border. An ideal holiday spot for the whole family, there is so much to do here – water sports, fishing, camping, bird watching and even golfing.

For those interested in jungle-trekking, the lush jungle is home to a plethora of wildlife – including deer, wild boar, leopards, birds, bats and albino snakes.

Serene Pedu Lake in northeast Kedah.

With specially created hideouts and canopy walks, nature lovers can enjoy the wilds in comfort. And the adventure doesn’t stop when night falls and the cacophony of jungle insects, the hooting of night owls, and the strange cries of wild animals evoke a mysterious world. On a moonlit night, it’s almost surreal.

Ulu Muda

This large animal reserve in north-eastern Kedah is a good alternative to Taman Negara. Camping facilities are available, and no special equipment is needed. Facilities for tourists are limited, but that is the fun.

High Adventure Travel, in Kedah, has some interesting nature tours here, including jungle treks to observe elephants in the wild.

To learn more about Kedah, visit the website of the Tourism Ministry (Kedah highlight).

Map: Attractions in Kedah

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Mention Pahang and one immediately pictures lush forests, beautiful beaches and highlands.

Pahang is the largest state in Peninsular Malaysia and Kuantan is its capital city. Covering an area of 35,000sq km, almost two-thirds of the state is covered in dense tropical rainforest, making it a natural haven for Malaysia’s rich flora and fauna.

On the origins of the name Pahang, several versions were sourced. According to an old Malay story, a large “mahang” tree on the opposite side of Kampung Kemahang fell across Sungai Pahang, the longest river on the peninsula. Hence, the name Pahang.

The name was also said to have been derived from traders from China who called the state Pang-Hang and it eventually became Pahang.

A boat sailing into the sunset at Pulau Tioman.

There is a Siamese twist to it as well. The name was said to have originated from the language of a Siamese aboriginal tribe that meant ‘ore’. The aborigines used to live in the state and opened up several mining areas, especially in Sungai Lembing.

Pahang is bordered on the north by the states of Kelantan and Terengganu, on the east by the South China Sea, on the south by Negeri Sembilan and Johor, and in the west by Perak and Selangor.

The Titiwangsa mountain range that forms a natural divider between the Peninsula’s east and west coasts is spread along the north and south of the state, peaking at Tahan Mountain, which is 2,187m high.

Pahang’s royal town is called Pekan, which translates literally into town.

The state consists of 11 districts – Pekan, Rompin, Maran, Temerloh, Jerantut, Bentong, Raub, Lipis, Cameron Highlands and Bera.

National parks

The state that is blessed with natural wonders, Pahang has it all: the highland retreats, beautiful islands and beaches as well as national and state parks. Most of these natural wonders are still in their very pristine state.

One of the top attractions is Taman Negara or the National Park in Jerantut. There are lodgings and resorts that fit one’s pocket and a stay in the rainforest will be an experience much appreciated especially by city dwellers.

Visitors can immerse themselves and bask in the lush tropical greenery of one of the world’s oldest rainforest that is hundreds of million years old.

The magnificent Palm Livistona Endauensis is, as its name implies, known to be found nowhere else in the world except in Endau-Rompin National Park in Pahang.

Among the activities visitors can take part in are jungle trekking, a canopy walk that is suspended 40m above the ground that guarantees a bird’s eye view of sheer lushness, fresh water fishing, bird watching, rapid shooting, cave exploring or one can even discover the vast species of flora and fauna.

Apart from Taman Negara, Pahang has another tropical rainforest located south of the state and north-east of Johor: Endau-Rompin national park. It is also one of the oldest tropical rainforest complexes in the world and features rock formations some 248 million years old.

The park takes it name from the Endau and Rompin rivers that flow through the park. During the monsoon season that is from November until March, the park is closed to the public. Fishing is also banned from September until October as it is the mating season.

Another equally interesting nature park is the Kenong Rimba Park, located in Kenong Valley in Kuala Lipis. It is a scenic valley that passes through mountains and it is home to the orang asli.

Within the park, one will be able to witness beautiful limestone caves as well as the Kenong River. It has an abundance of lowland forests and riverside vegetation and one can view the varieties of ferns and wild orchids. The “pokok tualang” and “pokok ara” can also be seen. Another delightful attraction is the pink and white water lilies which can be found floating.

Islands and beaches

From the dense tropical jungle setting, visitors can relish the sun and sea at Pulau Tioman, reputedly to be among the 10 best islands in the world.

It lies some 36 nautical miles off the east coast and boasts of stretches of white sandy beaches, swaying palm trees, charming villages and friendly people. The water is crystal clear, teeming with fantastic marine life and colourful coral gardens. The twin peaks of Gunung Nenek Semukut provide a prominent landmark to this island.

Another thing that makes Pulau Tioman intriguing is the popular folklore it is said that the island is a resting place of a beautiful dragon princess. While flying from China to visit her prince in Singapore, this beautiful maiden stopped to seek solace in the waters of the South China Sea. Enraptured by the charms of the place, she decided to discontinue her journey. By taking the form of an island, she pledged to offer shelter and comfort to passing travellers.

The island is an excellent spot for fun-filled water sports activities such as scuba diving, deep-sea fishing, snorkelling, boating, water skiing and windsurfing. You can enjoy sailing around the island in a glass-bottomed boat.

One can enjoy the sandy beaches of Cherating, a famous beach town that has one of the best lagoons in the area with calm waters making you want to take a dip in the sea or just simply laze under the sun. Cherating also houses a cultural village and a turtle sanctuary. At the turtle sanctuary, one can learn about the lifecycle of turtles. The turtles also lay their eggs between July and August.

Tourists enjoying the scenic view at the Bharat tea plantation at Cameron Valley.

Another popular beach that is close to Kuantan is Teluk Chempedak. The beach has beautiful casuarinas and pine trees line the coast, with some rocky promontories facing the rolling waves of the South China Sea. All these combine to make the beach serene and delightful. You can see the boats of the fishermen at sea during the day, and the twinkling lights of their boats at night. The fishing village of Tanjung Api and Beserah are only about 5km away on either side of Teluk Chempedak.

Highlands

One can escape the hot and humid weather at the beach and go to the highlands for a cool retreat and relaxing holiday amid nature and fresh air. Pahang has four popular hill resorts: Cameron Highlands, Genting Highlands, Bukit Fraser and Bukit Tinggi.

Cameron Highlands is the smallest district but it is one of the most prominent attractions in Malaysia, being the largest and most famous hill resort in the country. This highland paradise still retains much of the charm of an English village. Being a primarily agricultural domain, one can find an abundance of vegetables and fruits farms here. Cameron Highlands is also the leading producer of flowers and tea in Malaysia. Located on the Titiwangsa Range, at about 1,500m above sea level, the temperature can drop to 16˚C or lower at certain times.

As for Genting Highlands, it is not only a cool retreat but also a gaming haven and a theme park. It plays host to many international entertainment shows. Its concept is different from other hill resorts and offers an exciting range of activities. It is also known as the ‘City of Entertainment’.

Enjoy the cable car ride right up to the summit. The lower station is situated near the Awana Golf and Country Resort. The 20-minute ride ascends from 914m to 1,768m. Genting Highlands is located in Bentong and it is about 2,000m above sea level.

Another highland resort in Bentong, Bukit Tinggi is famous for its Colmar Tropicale attraction. It is a replica of a collection of buildings from a village in the north-east of France, dating back to the 16th Century. It looks just like a picture postcard. The hill resort is some 762m above sea level.

Central to the village is Colmar Square where the aroma of the blooms can tease your senses. There are fountains and park benches in the square for relaxation after a hard day’s work browsing in the 17 theme shops.

A drawbridge reminiscent of ancient castles, clock tower with an original cuckoo bird clock, and the viewing tower complement the ambience.

French food is served from the sidewalk cafes and restaurants. The tables are placed strategically around the square so you can enjoy a meal or glass of wine whilst taking in the ambience.

Lakes

From the highlands, one can also explore the lakes of Pahang, namely Lake Chini and Lake Bera.

Lake Chini is located in Pekan and its lakeshores are inhabited by the Jakun orang asli.

It covers 5,026ha and it is the second largest fresh water lake in Malaysia.

The lake is made up of 12 water bodies and is a rich bio-diversified lush tropical wilderness that is home to 138 species of flora, 300 species of non-aquatic life and 144 species of fresh water fish.

A view of the beautiful Tasik Chini.

Between August and September the lake is transformed into a floating garden with thousands of white and pink lotus flowers covering the surface.

The lake has its own myth as well. A local legend has it that it is home to a dragon called Naga Seri Gumum (sometimes referred to as “Malaysia’s Loch Ness Monster”). It is also believed that an ancient Khmer city had sunk to at the bottom of the lake. Its less mysterious sister lake, Lake Bera, is the largest natural freshwater swamp lake system in Peninsula Malaysia. Located in the southwest of Pahang, it remains both a unique and remote wetland wilderness.

Extending 35km long and 20km wide, the lake is surrounded by a patchwork of dry lowland forests. It is characterised by a watery landscape dominated by large grass-like blades of pandan leaves that line the narrow channels. A variety of ferns and orchids can be seen attached to tree trunks while thorny rattan weaves through the undergrowth. Among the fields of metre high reeds and rows of dense foliage found in the open water hang dozens of pitcher plants in shades of green and red.

In the drier areas, lowland rainforest trees and palms add to the diversity of the wetland reserve. Lake Bera is an eco-system that supports not only a diversity of animal and plant life but sustains the livelihood of the Semelai people. It is a sanctuary for more than 200 bird species, 50 mammals and 94 fish species. It is also a habitat providing food and shelter for bird life, including kingfishes, hawks, herons, but overall, water birds are strangely scarce.

Though very difficult to see in the wild, the extended wetland area and its surrounding forests still support tigers, tapirs and elephants.

It is also home to endangered reptilian species such as the Malayan False Gharial (a freshwater, fish-eating crocodile), the totally protected Striped Giant Soft-Shelled Turtle, the much sought after Malayan Giant Turtle, reticulated pythons that can grow to a length of 18 feet, prehistoric looking monitor lizards and lots of frog species.

Other attractions

Other places of interest in Pahang are the museums with the main one located in Pekan. The latest addition is in Sungai Lembing, Kuantan as it has a fascinating collection of relics from the tin mining days. In its heyday, the place had the largest, longest and deepest subterranean mine in the world.

About 15 minutes away from Pekan is the Pulau Keladi Cultural Village. It is the birthplace of Tun Abdul Razak Hussein, Malaysia’s second Prime Minister and father of current Prime Minister Datuk Seri Najib Tun Razak. At the Pahang Silk Weaving Centre nearby, visitors can watch the intricate art of silk weaving. – By ROSLINA MOHAMAD

To learn more about Pahang, visit the official State Tourism Ministry website.

Map: Attractions in Pahang

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Terengganu: Beautifully tranquil

To those of us lucky enough to have holidayed in Terengganu, “paradise on earth” would not be too strong a description. Miles of beautiful, unspoilt beaches, quaint fishing villages, island resorts, the majestic Tasik Kenyir, bustling Kuala Terengganu – this East Coast state has it all. Terengganu has retained much of its identity and its relaxed, unhurried lifestyle offers visitors an experience unlike any other.

The majestic Lake Kenyir is just one of the many attractions in Terengganu that makes it an ideal holiday destination.

Besut, a picturesque fishing village is the gateway to the beautiful Perhentian Islands. A 90-minute drive from Kuala Terengganu, it is also home to the seven waterfalls of Lata Tembakah at the foot of Gunung Tebu (3401m), the bubbling La Hot Springs and Lata Belatan.

Terengganu abounds with traditional customs, practices and handicraft – such as songket, mengkuang and rattan weaving, batik printing and brassware. These can be found at Pusat Bandar Kraf in Chendering, a handicraft village 7km from Kuala Terengganu.

Kuala Terengganu

Exploring the capital city is a good way to start your expedition. Interesting and historical sights dot the town which has a “city’’ beach, Pantai Batu Buruk, that comes alive every Friday night.

Istana Maziah, at the foot of Bukit Puteri, was built in 1897 by 20 craftsmen using limestone mixed with clay, coarse salt, egg yolk and honey. Completed in 1903, the palace now serves as a venue for royal functions. The imposing Tengku Tengah Zaharah Mosque or Masjid Terapung (floating mosque) is a famous landmark in the state capital.

Also worth a visit is the Terengganu state museum – the largest in South-East Asia – which houses the original Batu Bersurat (14th century Islamic stone inscriptions).  Relatively new t0 the other attractions is the Islamic Civilisation Theme Park – locally known as Taman Tamadun Islam – which features 20 representations of monuments from all over the world including the Taj Mahal and the Al-Hambra Citadel Granada. The Crystal Mosque is the prime attraction.

A stroll through Chinatown (or Jalan Bandar) is a must. Shophouses were built in Southern Chinese style with carved roofs and decorative tiles. Further down is the Central Market or Pasar Besar Kedai Payang where fruits, vegetables, textiles, household goods and sundry items are sold.

Pulau Kapas in Terengganu.

Islands in the sun

With a coastline stretching some 255km, Terengganu has among some of the best beaches and islands in Malaysia. They include Pulau Redang, Pulau Perhentian, Pulau Kapas and Pulau Gemia, or Gem Island. Pulau Redang, a marine paradise, is the largest island and is popular with divers and tourists alike. It is accessible from Merang.

The coral reefs around the islands are great for snorkelling, while a variety of dive sites offer a challenge to scuba divers.

Pulau Perhentian comprises Perhentian Besar and Perhentian Kecil. Pasir Panjang is the longest and most beautiful stretch of beach on the island.

Pulau Kapas, situated about 6km off the coast of Marang, was thus named by the locals because of its white beaches. The much larger Pulau Kapas is akin to a big brother looking after tiny Pulau Gemia.

Tasik Kenyir

Tasik Kenyir in Ulu Terengganu is the largest man-made lake in South-East Asia. When the area was flooded to construct a hydroelectric dam, most of the hilltops and highlands remained above water level creating 300 man-made islands. Kenyir is almost the size of Singapore and there are more than 14 waterfalls, numerous rapids and rivers. There are also two caves – Gua Bewah and Gua Taat. A note of caution – you’ll need an experienced guide to explore the areas surrounding the lake.

Surrounded by a lush tropical jungle, Tasik Kenyir is popular with anglers. Other activities include swimming, canoeing, boating, jet-skiing and jungle trekking. A unique way to enjoy the lake is by staying in a houseboat.

Arts and crafts

To see craftsmen making traditional fishing boats, head to Pulau Duyung.

To see craftsmen making traditional fishing boats, head to Pulau Duyung, at the mouth of Sungai Terengganu. It is accessible by road or ferry from Pantai Batu Buruk.

For history buffs, a stop at Pulau Bidong is a must. Although the former refugee camp for the Vietnamese boat people is in disrepair, four of the most important relics on Bidong are still intact – a Buddhist temple, a church, two memorials and two cemeteries.

Adventure activities

The Peladang Setiu Agrotourism and Resort combines agrotourism with ecotourism. About 80km from Kuala Terengganu, the resort has crystal clear streams and a campsite. It is close to the 400ha Gunung Tebu reserve; a climb to the summit is a must-do and can take up to two days.

For 4WD adventurers, a drive through the jungles of Hulu Terengganu or on the logging tracks of Hulu Dungun is popular. You can also take to the waterways of Terengganu in a canoe or raft. Pasir Raja, Sungai Dungun and Sungai Besut are the best places. - By SIMRIT KAUR

To learn more about Terengganu visit the State’s Tourism Ministry’s website.

Map: Attractions in Terengganu

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The sleepy hollow of Batu Gajah is about more than just Kellie’s Castle. Think migratory birds, heritage hospital, Anna And The King and more.

You’ve never been to Kinta Nature Park? Pak Yap gasps.

I shake my head.

“You do know that Batu Gajah is less than an hour’s drive from Ipoh?”

My blush deepens.

“That’s the trouble with Malaysians,” he sighs.

Tree of life: Lake Pucung, Perak, is the primary nesting ground for herons and other migratory birds. The hundreds of white dots are actually herons!

“We never appreciate what we have. When I was overseas, I had to travel four hours by boat to visit a bird sanctuary. After an uncomfortable ride on a small boat pushing through thick water plants and low-hanging branches and brambles, we got to the so-called bird sanctuary only to be told that we could not go any nearer as it would disturb the herons.

“After all the effort and the extra charges we only got to hear the herons. Mind you, the resort had billed the heronry as a significant eco site! Here, we have a treasure right at our doorstep, and nobody knows how to appreciate it!” Pak Yap laments.

After that tantalising teaser, I simply had to redeem Perak tour guide Mr Raja’s long-standing invitation for a day trip to Batu Gajah before his patience expired. My folks and I set off towards Batu Gajah with Mr Raja as chauffeur; he practically insisted on driving.

On the way, I ask if our itinerary includes TT5, said to be the last remaining tin dredge in the country. Ever since learning as a kid that my grandpa worked as a mechanic on one of these metal monsters, I’d been raring to see a real-life one.

“Yes, I was going to suggest it since the dredge is about 9km away,” Mr Raja replies.

My excitement turns into mild alarm after we turn from the main Batu Gajah-Tanjung Tualang artery into a bund road that leads to the park. Good thing Mr Raja insisted on on driving – riddled with potholes, the bund road bleeds into a dirt road that goes on for five more bone-jarring kilometres.

With him at the steering wheel, I can focus fully on the striking scenery that surrounds us even before we enter the park proper. On our right, the Kinta River flows yellow and muddy next to a silted bank that’s barren except for some bushes.

In stark contrast, the left side is fertile and green, with lotus ponds and small groves of small trees

One final turn to the left, and we’re there. The sight before me is positively Eden-like: giant trees and shrubbery dotting the grassy compound, while a shimmering pond lies beyond the covered footpath. I practically skip and dance along the short walk to the viewing pavilion, stopping from time to time to tilt my head backwards and gawp at towering rain-trees that soar heavenward, forming a green lacy canopy.

I reach Lake Pucung, where all the action takes place. Directly opposite the pavilion, a single islet floating on the pond, covered with raintrees, looking like a giant dark green mushroom speckled with hundreds, nay, thousands of white dots.

The Sri Damai Chalet at Clearwater Sanctuary Golf Resort.

As my eyes grow accustomed to the scene, it dawns on me that these “dots” are really the over 2,000 fabled migratory birds that have flown from as far away as Mongolia to build their homes on the branches.

Other details gradually register, as my eyes grow accustomed: A graceful eagle swooping down for a prey in a perfect line. A snowy white egret making a reflection on the water as it flies low. Male herons flaunting their plumes in attempts to woo the females. On the ground, in the air and among the branches, the heronry bustles with activity and echoes with the calls of numerous birds.

The four of us stand there in mesmerised silence, savouring our National Geographic moment.

Gradually, I realise we’re not alone. A guy is standing in the watchtower, armed with a DSLR camera that looks as big (and probably is) and as powerful as a cannon. It occurs to me, I might get a better aerial view from the tower.

I sprint up to the highest level. Alas, my puny semi-pro with its puny zoom lens barely makes a difference, so I abort my mission and join the rest of my group at the pavilion.

They are fussing over a discovery my father made near a tree: a lumpy pouch encased in a wig-like net that resembles a giant testicle. (Hey, I never said I wanted to be a naturalist …)

Fortunately for everyone, before I’m solicited to volunteer my uneducated guess about its identity, my mother exclaims: “Amazing how the bird can make this with its beak!”

Sodesneh, it’s a bird’s nest.

“You can hang it on a tree,” Mr Raja suggests, earning Dad’s vigorous nod of approval.

I listen to the exchange with disbelief. Hang a fallen bird’s nest on a tree so that it looks like a bird built it? My computer-ruined brain boggles at the warped logic. Whatever floats their boat.

While the folks continue bandying ideas about their newfound toy, I mull over my findings. The park has huge potential to be a prime attraction, but something would have to be done about the road coming in, for starters.

Then, there’s the woefully inadequate facilities. No café to speak of; a peeling signboard that looks tragic; and a toilet … what toilet? I had to borrow a bucket from the caretaker’s wife to transport water from another tank to flush the toilet.

In spite of the odds, the park is quietly pulling a crowd of loyal admirers. It has drawn bird watchers from as far as Britain, Hong Kong and the United States. Mr Raja once saw a group of students from Singapore camping overnight at this site.

And they found out from…?

“Word of mouth?” he shrugs. “During dry weather, you can hike, cycle or drive around the park, using the many mining roads criss-crossing the site. We’ve only seen a fraction of the park,” he points out.

Lake Pucung alone is already sensory overload. It’s easy to get immersed and forget that there are at least a dozen other mining pools scattered over the 900ha territory that makes up Kinta Nature Park, the majority of them teeming with dense vegetation.

For this, we have to thank the collapse of the tin mine. After the mining lands were left idle, nature began to reclaim them, and thus began its new lease of life. The result is the rich secondary forest we see now.

To the birds, this means food – lots of it – which is why and how the area became a magnet for water birds and other wildlife.

Did I, a non-birder, just spend two hours gazing at birds? I look at my jeans. Clinging to the cloth is proof that I am not dreaming it up – lots of love-grass from running around the wild grass in an attempt to photograph the birds from every conceivable angle.

The TT5, the last remaining tin dredge in the country.

On the drive out, my eagle-eyed mother points to a distant mark and says the strangest thing: “Is that a real bird or a statue?”

Following the direction of her fingers, my eyes fall on a grey heron perched on a tree stump protruding out of the water’s edge. With its dignified ramrod-straight position, it looks more sentry than bird, as if to see us off.

In that moment, I know that I’m in love.

TT5 – the Metal Monster

Next stop: TT5, the steam-powered tin dredge that operated for 44 years until 1982, when a drop in tin price made it economically unviable.

My grandma and aunts had always used the expression “metal ship”, conjuring up images of all kinds of awesome to a child, and in fact, this isn’t too far from the truth.

Sitting in a body of water, the dredge looks like a giant battleship with a system of chutes resembling a host of menacing jagged swords piercing the sky at one end, and a chain of giant buckets at the other which could dig to a depth of 15m and then carry 280 litres of tin-bearing soil upwards into an oscillating drum.

The tin is extracted through a system of jigs and screens, while the excess material is disposed of via the chute system.

Mr Raja intersperses his technical explanation with vernacular anecdotes, helping me imagine how life was 60 years ago. Slowly, a picture begins to form: grandpa arriving at 7am and hanging his tiffin by the railing; grandpa tinkering with a grinding, chugging mechanical mess; grandpa sitting on the bench and eating his lunch, grandpa…

Jodie Foster enjoyed quite a view when she put up at Anna’s Suite during the shooting of Anna And The King.

As the workers could not leave the site during their entire shift, they had to do their business on the dredge, explains Mr Raja. The “big business” takes place in an enclosed cubicle. Another “open-air” toilet caters for “small business” – basically you just stand by the railing and make your “contribution” to the pond …

Though I was never close to my grandpa – men those days epitomised the “talk less, do more” philosophy – I could now understand why he would turn to drink for succour. “Hard” doesn’t even begin to describe a life that involved mentally and physically punishing work in a pressure-cooker environment throughout the day.

Panoramic paradise

All that physical activity in the sun has naturally worked up an appetite. After debating the various options, we decide to save Tanjung Tualang river prawns (which I’ve eaten several times) for another day. With such pleasant weather, it would be a travesty not to have a relaxing al fresco lunch overlooking a panoramic lake, so we head for Clearwater Sanctuary Golf Resort, famed as one of the locations for Anna & The King.

After lunch, Mr Raja suggests checking out the chalets, a proposal I gladly welcome. In previous trips here, I’ve played at the driving range and checked out the remnants from the Anna & The King film set. I’m curious to see if the Sri Damai chalets live up to the promise of “cosy cluster of 30 chalets, idyllically overlooking breathtaking lakes fringed with lush foliage.”

We walk down a tree-lined path to the last chalet in the row dubbed Anna’s Suite, which was custom-built in a record six months when it was learnt that Jodie Foster would be putting up at Clearwater. Mr Raja walks past the huge living room straight to the bedroom, and beckons me over to the balcony.

The expression “jaw-dropping” was invented for moments like this.

To this day, I still marvel that I had sufficient presence of mind to whip out my camera and click the button when a boatman rowed past on the lotus-fringed lake, rewarding me with the most beautiful landscape photo I’ve taken in my life.

Elated as I am about this unexpected bonus, I can’t help feeling saddened by the truth of Pak Yap’s earlier words: Here we have a treasure right at our doorstep, and nobody knows how to appreciate it!

Right after this Batu Gajah teaser, I’m planning my next Cuti-cuti Malaysia. – By ALEXANDRA WONG

For customised tours to Batu Gajah, contact Mr Raja (k.raja8876@gmail.com / tel: +6012 524 2357).

Map: Clearwater Sanctuary Golf Resort & Surrounding Attractions

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