The Bajau is the second largest ethnic group in Sabah (fewer in number than the Kadazan Dusun), making up 13.2%* of the total population of the state.

Like the term Kadazan Dusun, the term Bajau is collective, used to describe several indigenous tribal groups at once. Examples of these “tribes” or sub-ethnic groups include the Illanun, Bajau, Suluk, Obian and Binadan.

For most of their history the Bajau have been a nomadic, seafaring people, living off the produce of the sea, whether for trade or subsistence. They are skilled fishermen, originating from the Philippines-Celebes coasts (although some believe they originated from Johor) who settled along the east coast of Borneo.

They kept close to shore by erecting houses on stilts, and got around with the lepa-lepa, a handmade boat which many practically lived in. It is a way of life that has changed little over time, which explains why they are still referred to as the Sea Gypsies.

However, many then chose to leave behind their seafaring ways to live entirely on land. They chose the west coast areas – particularly at Mengkabong and Tempasuk – to build their settlements.

Over the years, this west coast group, known sometimes as Orang Sama, evolved separately from their sea-loving cousins, both in lifestyle and in speech, and even in physical features. They thrived, and took to farming and cattle-rearing for a living, proving to be a very adaptive society; today they are known as the Cowboys of the East, a fitting tribute to their equestrian skills.

The many sub-ethnic groups of the Bajau, though they vary culturally and lingusitically, are unified through their religion. Except for a tiny fraction, they are by and large Muslims, practising Sunni Islam.

Nevertheless, many, especially among the Bajaus of the east coast retain traditional pre-Islamic pieties. An example of this is the offering of thanks to the Omboh Dilaut, the God of the Sea, whenever a particularly large catch is brought in.

As with most of the ethnic indigenous groups of Sabah and Sarawak, the festivals and celebrations of the Bajau revolve around their traditional vocation which identifies them as a society.

For instance, the east coast Bajau are synonymous with the Regatta Lepa Semporna, an annual celebration that highlights and commemorates the tradition of boatbuilding.

For those who wish to witness the much-touted horsemanship of the west coast Bajau, then the carnival-like Tamu Besar, an annual event held every November at Kota Belud, is where you ought to be.

This is the day when the younger generation of Bajau men are reminded of their heritage as horsemen. Veterans demonstrate their riding skills and racing styles, as well as conduct pony games which used to be the highlight of village fairs in the past. [Irenena Obon, The Sama Horsemen (Persatuan Seni Budaya Bajau, Sabah)]

Smaller-scale markets, called tamu, where the Bajaus trade their wares, are held too at various locations all over the West coast. The largest tamu is at Kota Belud, held weekly on Sundays. Unlike the Tamu Besar, there are no pony games or such grand exhibitions of skill, though you may still find horsemen, dressed in the Bajau horseman's ceremonial regalia, stationed behind the main site.

The womenfolk generally tend the stalls at the tamu, selling everything from exquisitely embroidered cloth (they are known for the handwoven fabric known as dastar) to local cakes to livestock.

It is perhaps the best place to observe the many colours and sounds of the Bajau, a unique people who have proven to be a tenacious lot, exemplifying the richness of Malaysia's cultural heritage.

* Percentage derived from the Population and Housing Census of Malaysia, 2000, Yearbook of Statistics, Sabah 2001, Department of Statistics Malaysia