The largest state in Malaysia, Sarawak is blessed with an ethnically diverse population, which consists of both indigenous and non-indigenous peoples. The former comprises Ibans, Malays, Bidayuhs, Melanaus, Kenyahs, Kayans, Bisayahs, Kelabits, Penans and Muruts; while the latter include the Chinese and other Asians, as well as a few Europeans.

The indigenous people, according to the 2000 Census, number 1.46 million, forming 70.6% of the total population of 2.07 million. The Ibans, also known as the Sea Dayaks, represent the largest group with a total population of 600,000, which is 29.1% of the state's total population*.

Like the Malays, the Ibans are of Proto-Malay descent; their origins can be traced back to Yunnan China. The name “Iban” was given to them by the Kayans, an adaptation of the word “ivan”, which means immigrant or wanderer.

They are believed to have migrated to Sarawak from Indonesian Borneo, choosing to settle along the banks of the main rivers and their tributaries which serve not only as their source for water, but also as a means of communication.

The first Iban settlements were at Lubok Antu, but by the early 1900s they spread out as far across the state as the Limbang, Tatau and Kemena Rivers.

Their dwellings, known as longhouses, were built to each house over 200 people, consisting of separate family units, and headed by the tuay (which literally means “old” in the Iban language). The leader of several longhouses in a specified area is known as the penghulu.

The Ibans are traditionally farmers, largely depending on rice cultivation for their livelihood. However, theirs is far from a docile farming community. On the contrary, they were largely known for their fierce reputation as warriors, particularly because of their headhunting tradition.

In fact, it was as recent as during World War II that the community celebrated the victorious warriors of a headhunting raid with a grand festival called the Gawai Kenyalang (the Hornbill Festival).

The heads of their enemies, the skulls of which are preserved, symbolised bravery. A taken head was believed to bring strength, good luck and prosperity to a longhouse. It was a most prized possession. (It was common for fathers whose daughters were about to be married to demand human heads as dowries from the bridegroom.)

The tradition of headhunting gradually came to an end after the British made it illegal after the war. Still, many Ibans take pride in the bunches of skulls which decorate their longhouses.

The Ibans of today, though still as fearless, have since adopted a peaceful agrarian lifestyle. A large majority have become Christians although they still maintain their strong cultural identity and heritage, keeping to their traditional beliefs.

As such, rituals and festivals that pay reverence to mythical and legendary heros and deities are still practised. Examples include the Gawai Dayak (Harvest Festival), Gawai Kenyalang (Hornbill Festival) and Gawai Antu (Festival of the Dead).

The traditional Iban beliefs show traces of an influence from the Javanese and the Hindus. They worshipped a triumvirate of gods which come under the authority of Singalang Burung, a deity identified with war.

The continuing existence and practice of traditional rituals and festivals has, in turn, ensured the continued relevance (and survival) of many of the art forms of the Iban, because both go hand in hand. A fine example is the Ngajat Dance which is performed during the Gawai Dayak.

It seems that though modernisation has seeped into the social and cultural fabric of their society, the Iban psyche remains resistant to total change. A good thing too, as the Ibans are known for their strong tradition of hospitality where visitors are always made to feel welcome. Simply pay a visit to an Iban longhouse the next time you are in Sarawak, and you'll understand.

* All figures in this paragraph are derived from the Population and Housing Census of Malaysia, 2000, Yearbook of Statistics, Sarawak 2001, Department of Statistics Malaysia