With a checklist that includes dense forests, hornbills by the hundreds, exotic blooms, rare wildlife and unspoilt wilderness, the Temenggor forest is one place nature-lovers should head to – more so now that the site has been earmarked for logging, writes TAN CHENG LI.

WE huffed and we puffed our way up the hill. It was either a precipitous 30-minute climb or a trail which, although kinder on our legs, would have taken a gruelling two-hour's hike. Why prolong the torture, right?

And so we gripped tree roots and branches to hoist ourselves up the sheer wall. Being rarely used, the trail has few footholds, and fallen leaves made it slippery.

Through sheer grit and determination, we reached the peak and summoned enough energy to clamber up a wooden tower – and was rewarded with a view that was simply, breathtaking.

Temenggor Lake, a glassy expanse of water, spread out before us. It was embraced by verdant hills and dotted with tree-clad islets. As the early morning mist lifted, fingers of sunlight cast a romantic glow over the scene. A hush enveloped us as we each silently absorbed the mesmerising scene.

The wild landscape of Temenggor Lake.

We all agreed: the climb was well worth it. As we rested and enjoyed our packed snacks, a pair of rhinoceros hornbills glided past the tree canopy below us – what a glorious sight!

Temenggor Lake in Grik, Perak, is actually a reservoir which came into being in 1978 when construction of a hydropower dam flooded over 15,200ha of forested valleys and hills. Thus, what we now see as islands were once hilly slopes.

The lake is already well-known among anglers but in reality, its surrounding forest has much to offer nature lovers. Virtually untouched and among the world's oldest, the forest hosts an untold cache of wild plants and animals. Its many jungle paths lead to bubbling brooks and gushing waterfalls, and to sites where the world's biggest flower, the rafflesia, grows.

Getting around the place requires boats. Yes, the harsh sun can burn you to a crisp but I found these cruises especially pleasant as the scenery is ever-changing and you are sure to spot some of the 274 bird species recorded there. Fish-eating birds are often seen circling overhead or perched on tree trunks at the lake fringes. Among them are the grey-headed fishing eagle, osprey, white belly sea eagle, peregrine falcon, lesser fish eagle and stork-billed kingfisher.

The forest reserve here is home to untold biological treasures, such as this uniquely patterned lantern bug.

Temenggor and the adjacent Belum forest are most known for their hornbills – all of Malaysia's 10 species of hornbills are found here. I was rewarded with sightings of four species on this trip – the rhinoceros, pied, bushy-crested and wreathed hornbills.

On a previous visit, I was lucky enough to witness a rare spectacle for which Belum-Temenggor is famed for – flocks of plain-pouched hornbills in flight. Every morning, these enigmatic birds group together and head northwards to their feeding spot, flying in a "V" formation like stealth plane fighters. In the evenings, they head back towards Temenggor to roost. This phenomenon has not been reported elsewhere.

Yet another fascinating activity at Temenggor is to visit a salt lick. Animals converge at these sites to lick the mineral-rich soil. So, if your timing is right, you can encounter elephants, rhinoceroses, deer, tapirs and even tigers. But we missed our appointment.

When we arrived at the spot, however, we saw no animals but a pungent animal stench lingered in the air and fresh elephant footprints were embedded in the ground. The elephants had just finished their salty meal, said our guide. I suspected that he tells the same tale to every group of tourists!

All that animal licking has carved cavities into the ground and slopes, turning the salt lick into a "bombed" site. Balls of elephant poo littered the place and tree trunks were smeared with mud – elephants rub their bodies there to get rid of ticks and mark their territory.

Next on the itinerary was the exploration of a limestone cave to search for spiders and cave racers, snakes that dwell only in dark dank caverns; but, because we had forgotten our torchlights, it was given a miss. We had to be content admiring the dramatic outcrops from our boat, and marvelling at beehives and cycads (a species of primitive plants) that hung precariously to the rugged cliffs.

The next day, we ventured into the forest of Pulau Besar in search of Belum-Temenggor's three rafflesia species. Fortunately, there were no steep hills to tackle. We trod along a boulder-strewn dry stream, invigorated by fresh air scented by jungle soil and flowers. Our guide pointed out interesting plants along the way, such as the tapak hantu with its unusual five-pronged leaf. With some imagination, one can see why it is named such. Of course, the men in the group eagerly asked to see Tongkat Ali.

Spotting rafflesias requires luck as each bud takes some nine months to mature, only to open into a gorgeous bloom that lasts a few days. This time, we were too early for the encounter. We stared long and hard at the pink cabbage-like bud sitting on the forest floor, willing it to bloom right before our eyes. All hopes were dashed when our guide declared: "It will open in three to four days." We were told to watch where we step, lest we trample on other growing buds. The tiny brown balls emerge from vines which snake through the forest floor. Well, good to know that the rafflesia population there is still propagating.

A visitor checks out a salt lick.

Temenggor has numerous Orang Asli settlements. Their cluster of bamboo huts hug the lakeshore. Some villages, like Kampung Chuweh, welcome visitors. There, we chatted with the village head about their way of life and tested our skills with a blowpipe. And true to the Malaysian penchant for shopping, we left with rings and bangles which the womenfolk had deftly weaved from pandanus leaves and bamboo, as well as bottles of wild honey harvested from hives strung up high on tualang trees.

Lunch was a wonderful picnic by a rocky stream. The crystal-clear water proved irresistible and before long, we were splashing in the stream. Later, lying on rocks cooled by montane water and lulled by the gentle rustling of leaves in the wind, some of us dozed off.

One weekend in Temenggor is just too short. There were other activities which we did not have time for, such as overnight treks to thundering waterfalls and jungle hot springs. The wilds of Temenggor are a welcome respite from hectic city life and bring one close to nature.

But this green haven might not exist for long. A major part of Temenggor is earmarked for logging and tree-felling in some areas has fouled streams with silt. So better make a trip there before chainsaws transform it into a bleak landscape. W

Temenggor tour operators

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